Passing through oppulent Singapore.....

           Sitting just outside the departures /check-in area, Changhi Airport, Singapore. The airport that

Colonial style bungalow, Singapore....

was claimed 20 years ago when I used to pass through here with some regularity, to be so beautiful that couples chose it as the place to be photographed in full wedding attire as part of the celebration. Changhi has expanded tremendously since circa 1996 and currently comprises four  passenger terminals. Perhaps people are a little more sophisticated now, but the place, although impressive for its efficiency and cleanliness, does not strike me as at all romantic in late 2016--- (but I am not 26!)
            I arrived in Singapore at midday after a night in a somewhat spartan room at an Air B&B in Johor Bahru, Malaysia, (the border town on the the north side of the straits that separate Malaysia from Singapore). I met the owner --a 40-ish Chinese Malay man who insisted in driving me

Tropical footpath--central Singapore.

to the border crossing point, but only if he could buy me lunch. Interesting chat with him and he explained how he operates 5 properties (houses) in partnership with his sister who is property cleaner & who  arrived for her duties in an impressive Mercedes 500. Good luck to them!
          With about 10 hours to kill before my 1.30am departure for Seoul, en route to Toronto, I wandered the main streets of this city state. Wow--impressive---would be two adjectives. I always remembered the place as clean, smart, efficient, well run----but now add beautiful to the list of superlatives. Especially as the city---and the island of Singapore is total non-stop city. I criss-crossed the place by rapid transport and did not spot a single acre that was not claimed and developed.
           Like Malaysia, Singapore has aggressively adopted the Christmas festival as an excuse to decks the streets with massive street lighting displays. The money in this city oozes----80+ floor towers by the dozen crowd whole areas of the metropolis, much bill-boarded with names of various international banks and financial management operations shouting out brashly to all the world that

Clean city.......

Singapore is the leading money centre in the Far East.
               It struck me rather forcefully as I promenaded through the central area, that Singapore has been eminently successful in combining architectural style & beauty with massive growth, in this hard charging capitalist mini-state. To me, this begs the question, as to why so many large cities in the western world have been so spectacularly less successful.  With a few hours to fritter until my flight, I have been enjoying some passive people watching---I am refraining from street photography in this very security conscious airport. It underlines to me that the "good times" have arrived for so many in this part of the world--reflected very noticeably in the extended/inflated waist lines of so many people. Especially regretful, as in North America, is that whole families gorging at McD. seem to be afflicted by obesity that could be in the region 30+ BMI. 

Malacca and some reflections.....

          The journey winds down. I am just a single 4 hour bus ride from the city of Johor Bahru,

Early night-fall over Malacca.....

located on the Malaysian side of the Straits that mark the territorial border with the State of Singapore. If Malacca had been anywhere other than my last real stop on the journey, I would not have accorded it 4 full days---2, maybe 2 1/2. Interesting, and if judged by the frenetic tourist night

market activity along a couple of its major streets, is benefiting from its 2008 UNESCO World Heritage designation. The hotel sector is obviously important and growing along with all the ancillary services devoured by tourists---- taxis, food stands and electronic gadget entrepreneurs etc. At one point yesterday morning I was "trapped" on a traffic island while a non-stop procession of perhaps 70-100 large and luxurious coaches were give priority and exited from a large bus park reserved for the vehicles assigned to transport the guests from a cluster of large hotels. Noticeably, all the passengers were Chinese and

This is  how the British arrived in Malacca...

headed somewhere, locust like, in the same direction. Assuming 70 buses with 43 passengers per bus, equals 3000 tourists.
           Yes, Asia is on the move! Assuming that this is just the tip of the iceberg as prosperity percolates down to the working masses, the numbers involved become astronomical. And as the whole industry in Asia grows it most probably will become increasingly homogenised with Disney, Starbucks, Holiday Inn, Mc D etc., at the forefront. I suppose that what I am trying to say here, is that I wish, in the interests of authenticity, I could have seen Malacca 25 or 30 years ago in pre-UNESCO days, when it was likely a rather poor and sleepy back-water.  What surprises me with today's mass tourists, is the seeming total lack of interest by 98% of them, in any details or background of the place that they have paid to render homage apart from the "selfie" phenomenon. Move just 75 metres from where the 'action' is and streets are deserted.
          I am glad that I was able to see northern Vietnam and northern Laos, both on the cusp of 'opening up' and likely just before the tidal wave of tourists from The Middle Kingdom arrive at the local airports and coach parks. Only the lack of infrastructure in those places  is currently holding the onslaught in check. I spoke on several occasions to travellers from Myanmar who assured me that that country is virtually the only untouched/authentic country left in the region. But things are happening pretty fast there and after

Oriental sound machine.....

40+ years of being closed the nation is now open for business.

            I visited Malaysia a number of times for business in 80's and 90's, the capital Kuala Lumpur specifically, and found at that time that English was widely spoken, not just by hotel staff, but by 'the man in the street'. Today, things are very different and sadly comparatively few seem to understand English, especially younger people. The Malaysian govt. I am told, has a determined plan to assure the social supremacy of the Malay (Moslem) majority and as part of this strategy, the Malay language has priority over all others---Hindi, Mandarin and English. Languages other than Malay have almost vanished from public sight. Apparently English lessons and access to English language study material has been severely cut back by the Ministry of Education. The older people in Malaysia were educated in English, as were their teachers. Under the new system, I am told, the present crop of teachers would have been trained uni-lingually & predominantly in the Malay language. Cynical I may be, but hopefully not a language fascist, however inclined to wonder how many of the future millions of Chinese tourists to Malaysia will be fluent in Malay!
              Singapore, (currently ranked #1 best educated country in the world) in contrast, has heavily favoured the use of English as the unifying force in its multi-cultural society----to the point that the government is now undertaking a promotional campaign to encourage the majority Chinese population to speak more Mandarin and use chop sticks!! 

Scenic Malacca........

       Turned out of my hotel into the torpid equatorial heat at a brisk 10.30am, to do the sights of

View from the bridge in Malacca...

Malacca. Noticed how many of the go-down shops were shuttered and padlocked and first thought that the economy of Malacca was in some type of free fall. At this point, I got chatting on the street to Malik, a very friendly older man, who reminded me that it was Friday, (the Islamic Sunday) with many people in the non-tourist sector enjoying a day of rest. Can't say that I noticed this last week in the capital, Kuala Lumpur, but maybe Malacca, being a little smaller, is more conservative.
           Malacca (pop: 759,000), has a very interesting history being established by a Hindu sect in the 14th century, became a Chinese protectorate in 1405, dominated by the Portuguese in 1511 and the Dutch in 1641, with the British

He shared my lunch time bench by the river....

applying the heave-ho in 1795, when it became a Crown colony. In fact, there are a couple streets in the historic old town that still boast Dutch names---Jonkers and Heeren streets. The largest building, formerly the city hall, in the UNESCO 2008 designated central heritage core area, is even today known as the Stadthuys. It is around this area that the tourists mill, 98% from China,---loaded down with their famous brand gift carrier bags. H & M incongruously located nearby at the busiest spot, was doing roaring trade.
           It does appear to me that the local effort to capitalize on the UNESCO status of the city, has been mis-matched with the tourist arrival numbers. Many shops and restaurants are obviously having a tough time to survive. I walked large sections of the riverside, where I was the only tourist and could see many boarded-up

Someone went to Texas for their vacation.....

businesses, There were obvious signs of decay---cracked sidewalks and peeling paint even at the fun fair just off the central area.
              I am frequently amazed at the mass tourist segment ---they seem to spin in circles in a very limited central area, posing for selfies in front of everything. Move just 50 metres away and the streets are deserted. I watched people posing for their selfies in front of a decorative windmill, obviously celebrating Malacca's Dutch heritage. Click, selfie click and onto the next attraction and I asked myself how much actual interest these people had in the city they were visiting---not much, I hazard to guess. If it's Tuesday, it must be Belgium!
           A note from the mosquito front. I have hauled two bottles of high powered repellent around Asia for three months with nary a mossie spotted. Now, I know where they all hangout--in Malacca and to be more precise, under the table in the lunch room of my small bed and breakfast hotel. Big as aeroplanes, with appetites for my blood, to match. Let's just hope that the daily anti-malarial pills that I

Shady store fronts in old Malacca....

have been taking are upto the task!
                Malacca is acting as the run-down to this SE Asia bus/back packing trip. In just 4 more days, I shall be back to my starting point in Singapore ready for the long flight to a snowy, cold Canada. Taking it easy and enjoying all the heat and humidity, along with the frigid blasting air-con air in hotel rooms.          
               If you think I am going to rewrite my earlier comments------
         Just before the tropical dusk descended at 6.30pm, I sauntered forth for the 10 minute walk to the town centre to find my evening repast. Hold on -------the narrow empty streets of midday are now absolutely jammed with outside tables and stalls selling a million nic-nacs and almost every conceivable Asian food dish. Thousands of hungry Chinese tourists have spilled into the central part of Malacca to share the noise & ambiance of this hot tropical evening.

Day of computer problems.....

        Oh, the stress of it all. I was by turns angry, disappointed, fearful and felt lonely and isolated,

Conservative shoppers....

rejected and forgotten by the world. Sounds pretty serious. Google had let me down. Every time I tried to enter the internet, the sites including G-Mail mail froze. I applied the various virus scanners and scrubbers---nothing worked and I was not able to determine if the problem was with Google, was just me, only in Malaysia or the whole world.  Then I had the bright idea of sending a Skype text message to my lovely and media talented daughter, not realizing that a Skype alarm would send her tumbling out of bed at 4 am to help and advise her tech challenged dad. Quick as a flash she diagnosed the problem and promptly recommended that I switch away from Chrome and enter G Mail through Internet Explorer.

Melange of architectural styles.....

Wow-- it worked and down into my G Mail dropped several totally unimportant messages---and here was me expecting that the whole world was going into seizures and worrying that this scribe had disappeared, been hijacked or abducted from his KL B&B digs.
         I thank the internet gods that luckily, I had had the foresight to back-up onto a USB my 2500 digital travel photographs, so that they are stored in three separate locations. 
         In the of relief that is sweeping through my aged veins, I believe that I experienced the terror and panic that is today associated with being forced 'off-line' for a few hours. Well within my lifetime, we used to buy a postcard of exotic locations, search the city for a post office and mail off said post card that would then take 3 weeks via airmail to let the folks back home know that all was well.  Today, a delay of 3 minutes is stressful and 24 hours 'off line', beyond words. It brought home to me, a realization of just how far we have come with all this instant technology that we accept as a matter of course into our lives and how completely hostage we are to mechanical technical glitches and horrors, hackers.

Monkey business at the Batu Caves.....day #4.

 Another day to appreciate the tourist complexities of Kuala Lumpur. Usually by the third or fourth

Batu Caves,  294 steps and a golden deity...

day in a large city I am beginning to have some sense of direction and starting to use the bus or subway systems with ease, to facilitate movement to and from my hotel base. It is with some frustration that I can sense this sense of orientation has not yet kicked in for me yet in KL. The city is a maze of small streets that wind and twist chaotically---apparently the colonial masters who early on designed & administered the city, had no comprehension of the demands of the modern tourist!
           Today my agenda was the Batu caves. In this case very simple--- take bus #173 (40 minute ride, less than 70 cents each way) from just outside my hotel door and ride it to the end of the line-----upon arrival, look for a massive cliff adorned by a 100ft. high golden Hindu statue. Even I, could not miss it!!
           Batu is billed as a major Hindu shrine, and according to the bill-board at the entrance, attracts 3 million pilgrims for a major festival every January---this seems an enormous number to me, for a city supposedly having a total population of just 2 million. Kind of glad that I am not here next

Ain't that cute......

month to experience this mass of humanity. People-wise today, it was most comfortable for my visit---no crowding or line-ups. The holy shrines are located 294 steps up the cliff face within a series of cliff cave systems. This morning was exceptionally hot in KL, with the sun blazing out of clear skies and I can tell you that ascending those 294 steps demanded full effort to attain the top. Many of the tourist visitors were clearly at their physical limits on the steps & I could not help wondering how a health emergency would be handled. I did not see any emergency facilities--but perhaps I'm just being a nervous nelly westerner. The whole Batu caves site is currently under-going major renovations. My heart-felt sympathy went out to the labourers, some of whom appeared to be middle aged, who are employed to carry the 50lb bags of cement up the 294 steps on their backs, so as to maintain the construction project.
           Truly awesome in its proportions, the actually temple within the major large cave is rather disappointing, with little to see. The comedy for the occasion was supplied by the

Moon over the Central Market---KL.

hundreds of macaque monkeys that inhabit the caves and cliffs at Batu. To some, they are obviously pests. Totally, without fear of humans, the monkeys are very quick to grab at hats, hand-bags and likely cell phones and cameras as well! At major risk of attack is any person with food being transported in plastic bags. I witnessed one poor man tag teamed by a couple of large animals who quickly ripped apart his food bags. The monkeys are not without danger to humans and  I was told that frequently tourists suffer bites. Not pleasant. Even the thunder-clap fireworks deployed frequently by the official monkey control officer, only seemed to scatter them for a short time before they returned to their "monkey business". 

Kuala Lumpur---days, # 1 & 2.......

                  Now have achieved a couple of days foot-loose on the streets of Kuala Lumpur (KL to the

Meeting fashion models.....

initiated!). Laugh not....this city is a maze of narrow streets in the central area surrounded by a network of 'almost' motorways, ringing it to the outside, criss-crossed with a maze of above and below ground subway stations. The city is dotted with a number of 'signature' futuristic sky-scrapers and often the best way to orientate, for this navigation challenged traveller, is to look skyward ---spot a land-mark structure, note it on the map and begin walking in the required direction. My hotel is near central market (since 1831, the foundation stone claims)--in fact not a pig, or a head of lettuce to be seen---all has been gentrified into restaurants and tourist nic-nac boutiques. Stating to the subway ticket seller this evening, that the 'central market' destination was wanted, I was irritatingly mis-directed to "Sentral" yes, spelt with an 'S', the largest inter-change in the KL transport system. Anyway, survived this tour of the underground system & circuitously made it back to my hotel in the late afternoon heat and with sore feet to prove it!
           My KL walking expedition today, took

Petronas Twin Towers.....  84 floors.

me to the famous twin Petronas Towers. Not sure that it is the tallest anything, but does claim that it is the worlds highest connected twin towers. They seem to build a "worlds highest/biggest almost every month some where in the world. The structure incorporates at its base a massive high-end, a scenic lake with foot paths, swimming pool and park like settings for all to enjoy. The tower visitor viewing experience is very professionally handled & very similar to the high security check-in at the airport---- there is a complete security check, colour coded neck tags provided for all. Visitors are required to be individually photographed prior to boarding the elevators---except that this 'space traveller' was just waived through---no photo required! Perhaps it was the half price, old age pensioners ticket in hand that persuaded the 'authorities'  that he was not a security threat. An expensive treat for a family man with wife & two teen-agers in tow at 360 MR ($90US).
The view from the 86th floor was spectacular on this day of leaden grey skies. The viewing area, spacious and all

Something for all tastes....

decked out with marble floors and walls and surrounded with large interactive monitors providing

visitor information on construction, dimensions etc. No line-ups encountered as the visitor flow is controlled efficiently by the coding on the neck-tags.
        After descent from the towers and proceeding to the bowls of the Earth, several levels below ground to locate supermarkets and the food court, to replenish energy and the all important liquid levels, I emerged into an exceptionally large pedestrian friendly lakeside park complete with fountains and surrounded by the impressive buildings of the KL financial district. Falun Gung was in attendance, providing the spectacle of a mass (perhaps 50 people) in some type of hypnotic state. I photographed a very conservative Muslim lady, totally, 100% veiled in

As viewed from the 86th , floor.

black, posing unself-consciously in front of a Santa to get her photo taken. Apparently the Malaysians, majority Muslim, do not find it at all incongruous that many public spaces are all decked out in Christmas finery with stores big and small loaded with Christmas merchandise. A true multi-cultural society. 

Lumput and the road to Kuala Lumpur.......

                    Made it down to Kuala Lumpur aka: KL, after a couple of non-descript days in a small

Styles combined......

coastal town called Lumput-Seriawan. Annoyingly, and I only have myself to blame, I booked my hotel in the Seriawan part of the conurbation. I use this word intentionally, as the town of Lumput is quite concentrated by the sea and is used as a ferry point to resorts on a couple of islands, whereas the Seriawan end is urban sprawl personified. The town is situated along both sides of a four lane highway the length of which cars, buses & trucks all belt along, as if on the Mulsanne Strait of Le Mans fame. Woe be-tide any poor pedestrian who tries to cross the race-track & do his shopping on the other side of the road! Took the local bus for the 10kms jaunt into Lumput---attractive sea front, but other-wise seemed to be low season  semi closed up and holding it's breath for an onslaught of hoped for tourists! The tourists I did see in Lumput, boarding the ferry for the islands, seemed to be 99% internal Malaysian visitors and I, about the only Westerner in town. One always knows when there are few tourists in town, as many locals cannot help themselves shouting--- "Hey, where are you from?" to which I often feel like responding with a variety of smart-ass responses--

Malaysian beauties....

-but refrain, with a friendly smile.
               Four hour bus ride down to KL, half of which was in heavy rain alternating with light drizzle. Corporate farming is big in Malaysia---we passed endless pineapple and palm oil plantations, plus forests of rubber trees, identified by the small pots attached to the base of the trunk to catch the liquid (latex?)--- Canadian readers---, just think of catching maple sap.                              
          Malaysia, a multi-racial society--- the largest group being the Malays, the original inhabitants, generally poorer economically, but politically dominant, the Chinese who control the economy and large numbers of immigrants from mainly Tamil Nadu, southern India. The Malays are Islamic, although I am told that their brand is comparatively benign compared to certain areas of the Middle East. The Chinese & Indians also have their temples in profusion. The overwhelming feeling however, is that of being in a tolerant Muslim country. I have been intrigued to note that in all the shopping plazas, in department stores and being piped into the streets are non-stop western Christian Christmas carols. The majority Muslim population seemingly does not see it as at all as incongruous to have the sacred music and traditions of another religion omni-present for the full month of December.                  

Georgetown, Penang, day #2.

 Full day wandering the streets of Georgetown, Penang,--- a UNESCO world designated historic city,

I see four eyes.....

under heavy clouds, but no actual precipitation---just a little cooler, welcome relief. Visitors mostly confine themselves to the core area which is (supposedly) subject to renovation and redevelopment so as to preserve historic character. How are they doing?---Well, a mixed report. In many places the old chop houses, shop in front, live at the rear, are being replaced with modern style Starbucks and McD. et al. Cynically, one has to suspect that a lot of money might have been thrown at the city planners to permit so many out-of-character exceptions.
The streets are safe, clean and well supplied with eating holes that reflect the tremendous ethnic diversity of not just Penang, but the whole of Malaysia. On the streets of Penang, Indian, Malay and Chinese citizens all seem to co-exist agreeably enough, but I am not sure what tensions exist beneath the surface. Back in 1969 there were major riots across the country as the majority Malays felt      

Protecting the house....

economically & socially deprived in light of Chinese economic dominance and demanded almost complete ethnic control of the government, the military & police plus the educational curriculum and priority for the Malay language. I observe that each racial group in Penang seems to restrict itself to residing in its own residential area. Here is a Wikipedia link to further information on this issue:   https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Social_contract_(Malaysia)   
Outside the old core area of the city, the look and feel is bland & very similar to any other prosperous and growing conurbation in the region.
          Considering that Malaysia is an Islamic

Teaching respect....

country, it was interesting to hear (non- religious) Christmas music being pumped, along with plastic Christmas trees and Santas into the shopping plazas located in the city centre area.
           I have explored my travel options south from Penang and it seems that tomorrow night I should be in the coastal town of Lumput for a couple of days. Inconveniently, buses for Lumput only run from the Butterworth terminal, a ferry ride away, back on the mainland. 

Day #1 Georgetown, Penang.

             Delayed 3 hours this morning with a slew of work and family issues that required attention

Street of the TV......

on the computer. What did we ever do in the days before e-mail/internet? Yes, I remember from many business trips to the Far East in the eighties & nineties that it was work all day and send faxes all night (because night in the east, is working time in the west!). Anyway, with a clear conscience upon completion of my tasks, I was able to navigate my way to Penang from industrial Butterworth on the very efficient and cheap Malaysian public bus and ferry system. During the 20 minute ferry sea crossing section, I chatted with an Australian couple who were back visiting Penang for the first time in 36 years and pointed out in the distance to me, a red roofed bungalow on the shore, where they lived back in in 1980. At that time

The Chris W. welcoming committee

the bungalow, had a large garden in a splendid park setting along the sea front. Today, the red roofed bungalow is still there, but now bordered 10 metres away by a Shell refinery on one side and a warehouse on the other. Progress?
          As previously mentioned, the Georgetown area of Penang island is a UNESCO world heritage site, where a serious effort is being made to hold onto the old colonial and Chinatown buildings in a maze of narrow streets from where large road vehicles are banned. I did note several new style structures that seemed incongruously to have sneeked through the 'old town' planning process. Located a hotel room that should suffice for a couple nights to enable me to get to know the place without the inconvenience of the ferry/bus haul in from Butterworth.

Hells Bells.
             It's struck again. My nice hotel in Butterworth is right next door to a very ornate Buddhist, or

Down by the  (Penang) ferry dock.....

is it Hindu temple?? On the other side of the hotel is a big outdoor Indian restaurant (the population of Butterworth seems to be predominantly Indians originally hailing from the Tamil Nadu area of south India. Put these two factors together, plus throw in a Sunday night and it just right to have a jolly old, kick your heels up, Indian wedding, complete with all the music and continual ringing of bells. Can only hope that the racket ceases by my shut eye time of 11.00pm. At least the music is rather more soul uplifting than the Phnom Penh, Cambodia funeral dirges of last month that lasted for 48 non-stop hours just below my bedroom window. They don't warn

Mosque in Penang....

you about noisy weddings and funerals in the glossy travel brochures were everything is warm, sunny and soooo relaxing!

Smoking:
             In the S.E. Asian countries that I have visited on this journey it is a pleasure to note that each one of them seems to fighting the scourge of the cigarette. Hotels, buses, trains and even mini-vans all ban the use of tobacco. They seem to have picked earlier in their development cycle than countries in the west, that smoking is a very dangerous, expensive and dirty habit. I noted a street warning sign today in Penang, Malaysia that said that smoking outside in certain streets was illegal and subject to 500 ringgit's ($125 US) fine. Let's not talk here about the rampant use of the cell phone wile driving--another dangerous habit.

Crossing into Malaysia......

The mystery as to why all the hotel rooms were booked solid in Penang, has been clarified for me. On the mini-van trip down to Malaysia, I sat next to a 47 year old Philippine, who told me that she was running in the Penang International Marathon, along with 9,999 others. This lady was remarkable--she only began running a couple of years ago and just last weekend also completed the Bangkok marathon.
          The crossing point at the Malay-Thai border which is used for those coming from the Hat Yai, Thailand direction appeared to be nothing short of chaotic---- literally hundreds of heavy trucks, passenger vans plus private cars and motor cycles, all mixed in together. Both  Malay and Thai customs agents appeared lethargic in the extreme, to all the hundred of travellers packed into the customs shed---how only 3 or 4 of about 20 positions could be manned at such a busy travel time, beggars the imagination!
          So it's farewell to Thailand and on into Malaysia. Must express some disappointment with the eastern Thailand coast leading to the southern provinces and the cities that spread down along the coastal strip. Busy and prosperous--- yes. Obviously the city planners have  decided that the future is other than in tourism. Now on my run down to my journey destination of Singapore---but still 17 days left to 'discover' Malaysia. Apparently Penang is designated as a UNESCO world heritage site and is an eclectic mix of Malay, Chinese, Indian and colonial cultures. Hopefully the 10,000 runners will have run away after tomorrow and I can site-see in peace!

Rest day in Hat Yai......

  My most recent bus travel brought me to the city of Hat Yai in the southern most part of Thailand. Located about 50 kms from the border with Malaysia and a transport hub for bus/minivan routes that cross the border. Upon arrival in Hat Yai last evening, tired, hungry and very hot, I settled for a night in a hotel near the bus station. After paying room rent up-front, realised that room was non air -con, so stepping into the windowless room ($10US/night) was like stepping into an oven---the electric fan merely wafting the hot air around. Just made sure that I consumed lots of water & gritted my teeth. In fact to my surprise, till about 6 am, enjoyed quite a sound & refreshing sleep.
          Changed hotels early this morning so as to be nearer the city centre of Hat Yai and provide a more convenient spring-board for a spot of sight-seeing. Disappointingly, not to much to see here.... Lonely Planet describes the city as a gritty border town, popular with Malaysian men crossing for Thai ladies of the night!. Must say, that during the daylight hours, when I was in the town, I did not see anything that could be described as being untoward.
          Bus ticket duly purchased at Hat Yai bus station ($12 US) for the 4 hour bus run tomorrow across the border into Malaysia & down the west coast to Butterworth/Georgetown in Penang State.

          Scouting for boys and girls in Thailand seems to be enormously popular. There seem to be few bus or railway stations that I have visited in the country that did not have groups of young people decked out in uniforms, covered in badges and waiting to board their transport to camp. The uniforms are the traditional uniform styles that I remember with the wide brimmed hats for the boys. No new new fangled long trousers, or trousers for girls, or other updates to modernise the image of scouting. BP would have been proud. 

Down to the 'deep south' of Thailand.

            It has been a busy week on the mini vans, 'big' buses, and tuk- tuks of southern Thailand. I am

Transferring the fighting cocks to our bus.....

now in Hat Yai (pop: 191,000) about 50 kms north of the border with Malaysia. I made a considered decision to fore go the sun & fun resorts of the west coast of southern Thailand, famous for their inviting islands limestone cliffs and warm, gentle turquoise seas, so popular with the packaged tour crowd from North America and W. Europe. Instead, I have followed the route south along the rather mundane east coast and during the entire week have seen perhaps no more than a hundred western tourists in total. It might seem somewhat counter-intuitive to purposely miss the beauty spots, but after all, the theme of my trip has been to try and see as much of

Two little maids from school are we...........

that which is 'natural' and non-touristic as possible in the four S. E. Asian nations visited so far. When one is travelling solo the choice of places to go & things to see, can vary.
          Heading out of the A3 Living Hotel doorway at 7.15am and transported instantaneously by the omni-present touting tuk-tuk man to the bus station, I found it well worth the time to haggle and obtain ticket quotes from several bus companies that offered direct routes through to Hat Yai from Surat Thani, thus avoiding maybe long mid-point delays en route to change buses. In general, I have found almost all the services that a 'rough' traveller like myself might need, to be supplied very efficiently. The almost total absence of

A kid with the right moves....

spoken and written English in these parts does not make things perfectly smooth, but hey, is'nt that the allure of travel.
          Hat Yai is in the heart of Thailand's 'deep south' Muslim provinces and at least in the densely populated area around the large central bus station, the hijabid ladies with long gowns are very evident.
           The main sport in this area must be cock fighting judging by the large number cardboard boxes of squawking birds loaded from pick-up trucks that rendezvous'd with the bus at several pre-arranged meeting points along the bus route southwards. Not a sport that I have any interest in witnessing and anyway one that is likely enacted in anonymous warehouses away from prying eyes.

Mini-bused to Chumphon......

        After a complete day yesterday to walk the pleasantly empty streets and attractive sea-front

Tuk-tuk man's assistant works with him.....

promenade of Prachuap Khiri Khan, I coop mini-bused approx. 190 kms due south to Chumphon (pop. 58,500).  I am staying at the Euro Boutique Hotel---found it on Booking .com, & is located in the centre of town. Mark it down as an exceptionally well run and attractive establishment, very reasonable at $15 US for a single room---- highly recommended should you ever find yourself in Chumphon. Not much to see of touristic note in the town itself ---main street, bustling and well served by a shopping plaza and many restaurants, street markets etc. The town is located about 13 kms from the sea and is not much influenced by its proximity. The local tourist office promotes trips out to nearby islands, rafting & scuba diving. During my walk about in Chumphon this afternoon, I only spied a couple of other western tourist/backpackers.

           The southern peninsula of Thailand extends southwards down to Malaysia with Myannmar/Burma along the western border. Approx. 330kms south of Bangkok, at Prachuap Khiri Khan, the actual width of Thailand from the Gulf of Thailand to Burma is just about 8 kilometres. Despite the proximity of

Monkeying about in the internet cables....

Burma, until recently a very closed and isolated nation, there is very little influence in this area of Thailand of its very large neighbour. The reason for this is that the two  (one to the south, the other to the north) nearest international border crossing points are 250 kms away in opposite directions.
                 Language. English is spoken semi-fluently by very few Thais, even those employed at the reception desks of hotels. Many may have a very elementary knowledge of the international tourist language---- I am told that it is now offered to all in the Thai public school system. English is, or some form of it (in China they call it Chinglish, in Japan, Jinglish) is widely used in Thailand, on advertising displays, on major

Any colour dress you want as long as it's black (mourning for king)....

buildings, airports & bus stations etc. While not wishing to appear a language fascist, it does seem to me that Thais, especially the young & educated, could be making a more aggressive effort to speak better English given the massive importance to the country of the tourism sector and international business sectors. I cannot help recalling the intensity of desire of young people in Vietnam to make contact with westerners on the street, almost to the point of pestering, to talk/chat/banter so that they could, individually or in a group, sharpen their English conversational skills.
                Tone & texture. Except for the preponderance of wooden houses in the jungle clad northern hill areas of Vietnam and Laos, the rest of south east Asia, or at

Very beautiful street lights in Chumphon.....

least the part I have travelled through these past nine weeks, is a desert of featureless concrete buildings. Once a region of dense forests, these seem to have virtually 98% disappeared. I suppose that it is a combination of the increase in living standards, especially in China and the desire for wooden floors and furniture in western nations. The other key aspect of the deforestation issue I understand, is that with the increase of prosperity & incomes in this region, dietary improvements for the masses has resulted in protein intake levels to increase rapidly, creating strong demand for meat and milk based products all of require forests to be cleared for cattle ranching.
                 Even small provincial towns in SE Asia seem very large and densely populated compared to regional small towns in the West. I suppose that increasing farm mechanization in rural areas is driving people to the towns for employment opportunities. These folk have to be housed and (ugly) durable concrete structures, thrown up quickly, are the affordable and practical solution.

South bound to Prachuap Khiri Khan....

And the winner for clean station floors is......Thai Rail.

                Created in Prachuap Khiri Khan (pop: 86,500)---- aka: PKK. Apologies to any of the blog! Forced myself to the vertical at 5.05am this morning, so as to be sure of catching the 8.05 "Super Express" for points south of Bangkok.  I was not sure of the availabilities of taxis to transport me to Bangkok Central railway station so early on a Sunday morning. My contracted motor cycle was a no-show, as I half expected that he would be, but as luck would have it---no shortage of official meter taxi men on the prowl for fares.
Turkish intelligence community that might be following my
                    Bangkok main offensive to them

Looking from Prachuap to the islands

railway station is a hive of activity in the early morning hours, although I suspect that the central waiting hall also doubles as a cheap (free) overnight hotel for many, as there were stretched & sleeping bodies sprawled all over the place occupying blocks of 3 or 4 seats at a time. Interestingly, they have a special waiting area of the main station waiting hall just for saffron robed monks. Monks are restricted in their contacts with females, so possibly sitting next to one in the general waiting section could be
                 Thai trains are moderately modern, very clean and quite comfortable. The "Super Express" consisted of 3 carriages powered with diesel engines--not the quietest form of

Scary sea monster........

propulsion--- we rattled down the track at perhaps max. 80 km/hour. One area where Thai rail does excel, is in having perhaps the cleanest floors. Every 30 minutes one half of the floor crew came through the carriage with brooms, followed 5 minutes later by the wet mop man, for a total of perhaps 6 clean-ups in the 4 hours travel time. Might have been more efficient if they just banned shoes in the carriage---removing shoes is quite common in this part of the world.
               Arrived PKK at 1.00pm just 30 minutes late to be welcomed by just two motor cycle tuk- tuk men & none of the ultra high pressure sales tactics common in larger SE Asian cities---a very pleasant change. The Pancake House B&B, booked in advance over the internet, 100 m from the sea- shore. The first accommodation so far that did not have its own en suite bathroom. My fault, I missed the feature, or lack there of. 

Bangkok China Town and the big river.....

         Put into operation today what I believe is the most effective sightseeing strategy in a massive

Sailors a sailin'

city like Bangkok (pop: 8.3 million). Use public transport to reach a place that is a central and well known location. In this case, I selected Hua Lam Phong which, as we all know, is Bangkok central railway station. I then set my target as the river front area about 5 kms away on a variety of streets that took in the major parts of the very large Bangkok China Town. I was, of course, assured by all the tuk tuk drivers that are drawn to a foreigner carrying a map in one hand and a camera in the other, that such an expedition was humanly impossible to achieve! Well this human did it, albeit after

Light tricks under the bridge....

a number of wrong turns---it must be great to have one of those hand held GPS devices for such a walk. Like all China Towns the world over, the Bangkok version is chaotic, a mass of activity and congestion, but oh so ripe to witness all human emotion in the raw.
             The wide & majestic river, the Chao Phraya that runs through Bangkok seems to be very cut-off from the central city streets that border the great water-way---it is the backs of buildings in China Town that front the river. Access to river panoramas are via small dead end alleys that lead to mini-wharves that are used as off-loading points for all the merchandise that is sold in China Town. True, in various other newer and rehabilitated parts of the river bank, institutions like the Royal Thai Navy HQ, the fancy hotels and private clubs for the well heeled that have been developed in green & pleasant opulence.
             Time passes quickly with so many visual distractions and apart from the nonstop intake of liquids that is required in the oppressive heat, I was able to graze my way through all the street stalls selling fried bananas, sliced pineapples and

Banksy in Bangkok?

tasty sausages on a stick etc. Get away from the slick ex pat money manager and organised tour group oriented shops and the prices of food on the street is still surprisingly affordable---one would be hard pressed not to be able to fill the stomach for 3 or 4 dollars.
             At one point, at the north end of China town, the river bank opened out and I realised that I was at a river boat commuter stop. Right! Quick decision to hop on board and head up river for a half hour cruise. The conductor lady relieved me of 25 cents for this delightful and refreshing journey. Never quite sure with the public transport if sometimes they just charge foreign tourists of many different tongues, a low fee just to avoid a long, complicated (and annoying) transactions. Taking a public bus yesterday the driver assured me that there was no charge, free, gratis!

Promenading the major Bangkok shopping streets....

         One of those most frustrating things and I thought that I was well beyond that very early stage

Thai Kings memorial shrine at the rail station----

in computer use------dutifully wrote up my blog yesterday---pressed the wrong computer button and there it was, GONE!! Even though I say it myself, one of the most brilliant blogs written in blogging history---you will just have to take my word for it.
              To the here and now. Returned after a another sortie into the city. This  time along one of the main shopping streets---  Sukhumwit which was the street where my hotel was located 20 years ago. The 'Ambassador' was a big smart hotel, complete with food court and small shopping arcade. Hard to believe---gone! Replaced by a condo tower and yet

Emerald Buddha temple opp. the royal palace.

another luxury goods plaza. Unbelievable changes to the city. The main feature that distorts the senses on Sukhumwit and on many other major streets, is the two level, in places 3 level, massive concrete sky train public transportation line that runs right down the middle of the thoroughfares. I was struck by the great similarity in the above ground 'skytrain' mass transit system that has been constructed in Bangkok with the one in Singapore. Looks like someone bought the same set of plans.
               Several weeks ago the king of Thailand passed away. He was in his nineties and held the title as the worlds' oldest living monarch (this has now passed to Queen Elizabeth II). Much revered in Thailand as a unifying force in a country where there is a major fault line in the social fabric.The official mourning period for the king is 12 months during which most women, and many men will dress in black. Buildings, banks, plazas, railway stations display elaborate tributes to the king and public shrines have been erected on the streets for the public to offer up prayers. Such is the scale and grandeur of these shrines, especially the ones offered up by commercial organisations, that one

Male dancer performing funeral dance...

is inclined to ask oneself if there is not an element of competition to demonstrate the most piety.
              I notice that the Thai population, traditionally petite and fine boned, is noticeably larger & heavier than it was 20 years ago, larger than the folk in Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam today. It is not uncommon to see obesity on the streets of Bangkok, especially amongst the young---could their obsession with cell phones, higher wages, cheaper food and the passive life have anything to do with it?
                   Last night, I was out on the streets taking in my fill of street food, when in the shadows, between two barrows, I spotted a rather large rat feasting on tasty morsels---a couple of young Thai women simultaneously eyed the pest and started to scream. I unthinkingly, and valiantly, extended my foot and dropped it smartly onto the rat's tail. The critter erupted in panic and scuttled smartly away into the dark recesses. The woman behind the stall started to loudly berate me-----not quite sure how to respond, I also made myself scarce!

Hello old friend---Bangkok how you have changed....

Hungry monk....

          Here I am, arriving at my Bangkok hotel (after a gruelling 45 minute search for it as the pillion passenger on a motor bike) ---haven't I commented before that these taxi drivers do not know their own cities! 20 years ago, I used to whooosh up to the big, expenses all paid hotel in an air-con taxi---how times have changed and so has Bangkok---BIG time. Twenty years ago Bangkok had the feel of the "Wild East" about it---very much as does Phnomh Penh today. The sidewalks were dirty, deformed and thick with refuse. I can report from the front line that Bangkok has cleaned up its act massively---very clean, everywhere is now so much more presentable and inviting for the overseas tourist or business person. I am reminded of Singapore as it was in the mid to late nineties. Bangkok
has constructed & is now operating a multi-line rapid transport system---I was going to say underground, but all of the system that I saw this afternoon during my walkabout, was raised high on concrete pillars with

Wat Phra Kaew near the palace

major roads running parallel along the space underneath. What I do recall, and which has not changed one iota, is the near suffocating heat of the city. Now of course, the luxury air-con office & shopping plazas are on every corner and are valuable places of refuge for this foot sore and ever thirsty tourist.
           Improvement is evident where-ever I looked on my 5 mile saunter up one central main street and back down another. Yes, even the traffic jams are more massive and vehicular progress even slower than it was in 1996. At that time, the massive traffic was a source of national pride--what it is today, I do not know. Relying on the auto for mobility in Bangkok, seems to be a complete disaster--total vehicular gridlock.
             Correction: yesterday I stated that the previously ubiquitous tuk-tuk has disappeared from Thailand. Not entirely true---they are still to be seen, at least in Bangkok in an updated and presumably safer/cleaner version. It did seem to me that mostly the passengers are westerners, presumably using them for part of the essential Bangkok travel 'experience'. Many taxis around----but of course, they also suffer from the constant traffic gridlock--this has given rise to the motor cycle taxi genre. Men and machines are located at most important road intersections, licenses with photos and hi viz jackets de rigeur, provide some assurance that the sector is at least government controlled to limit the 'cowboys'.  

Observation:
           Back-packers get a bum rap. Frequently depicted as western, spoilt, work-shy students taking a

Two monks talking to ??

year off to "find themselves". Yes, there are many of these young people spilling out of overnight buses (popular as they save a night's hotel bill). I say young, as there is also a segment at the other end of the age spectrum. On a bus the other day and sitting next to me, was a senior gentleman from Spain. Of course he asked, as seniors are apt to: 'how old do you think I am'? To be polite, I joked---58?? He proudly countered---90!! he was on his fifth country during a 4 month voyage. Well done senior senor! The young people I have met--and I have quite a few this trip, have all been very respectful and tolerant of the cultural differences that mostly they are experiencing for the first time. They seemed remarkably informed about the history of the region and appeared to me to be extracting real education value from their travels, apart from the practical skills of overcoming the challenges that confront when one is travelling independently. Examples would be floods, missed connections, delays, security concerns on strange & forbidding streets at 4.00 am. My particular admiration goes to the young females who travel alone and who refuse to be daunted by newspaper headlines and other old granny tales.
           Most of the backpackers seem to carry outrageously big & heavy luggage on their backs. Not unusual to see two petite 110lb girls buried under a back load almost as big as they are. I say this as a traveller with just a single carry-on size piece for my 3 months 'on the road. Stay happy, travel light!.
                The travel guides, not least Lonely Planet, hype various places as 'party towns'. My take on these places is that they are very tame as far as the back-packers are concerned. Perhaps things will be different as I pass through Thailand destinations such as Phuket and Krabi which likely target more the packaged tour segment clientele. We shall see......

Crossing the border into Thailand.....

Monday 14 Nov 2016.

         8.00am sharp-- presented myself at the Cambodian border exit control and breathed a sigh of

Sitting, waiting for the shared taxi.....

relief that they had not dreamt up any new charge/levy/toll for an independent tourist like me, for some service as a fee to leave the Cambodian Peoples' Republic. All cleared, I strolled the 500m across the sweltering no-mans' and into Thailand. All very straight forward. Next task--locate a bus, shared taxi, or whatever to take me the 200kms to Rayang, billed as a minor resort south of Pattaya and Bangkok. As reported yesterday, there is no cross-border public transportation from Pruhm, Cambodia into Thailand, and so the cartel of taxi drivers on the Thai side apply maximum squeeze on every westerner. For me, the squeeze was $70US (dealed down from $80) for the trip. Solo passenger basis only permitted! Breathe deeply and pay-up. What else to expect from a border crossing with a dozen casinos!
     

Hanging on the wall of the food stall.....

     Last time I visited Thailand was exactly 20 years ago---1996, in my export manager days. I had forgotten that the Thais drive on the left. Very quickly could see that Thailand is certainly a major step up in affluence over Cambodia, Laos etc. and also where it was in 1996. The shops here are crammed full of western style packaged consumer goods, 7-11's on every corner, ditto McDonald's and Starbucks. At least it means that I shall go less hungry than was often case in Cambodia. Only myself to blame, but I just cannot stomach the raw spices lathered over everything. Prices noticeably elevated in Thailand compared to the other SE Asian nations visited on this trip, although I should say that I am only shelling out $15 US for a very acceptable air-con centrally located hotel room in Rouang.
           Big disappointment for me is the apparent demise of the tuk-tuk in Thailand. Last time here, I could dive on or off these admirable vehicles & for just about $1 could get to anywhere in the Bangkok metropolis. Thailand seems to be well on the way to being a mass car owning society, whereas Cambodia, Laos & Vietnam are still well & truly mired in the mo-ped era. I observe

Ernie the elephant calling all to the temple....

how the overall speed of the road traffic in T'land is much greater than in the other three nations through which I have journeyed. Regretfully, the hyper affluent era of the spoiled brat kid driving his souped-up Honda down the main drag at 80mph seems also to have arrived in Thailand.
            Not a lot to keep a tourist in Rayang, so off to the bus station bright and early tomorrow to land myself a seat on a big bus (not mini-van) bound for Bangkok.. Seems as though my days of being picked up at my hotel door by a tuk-tuk or motor cycle taxi and shepherded to my bus, waiting for me at the bus station, as in Cambodia, Laos & Vietnam, are now a thing of the past & I will have to struggle to locate the bus station and the correct bus for myself in each town--not always as easy as it sounds.

Sunday, 13 November 2016.

             My shared taxi departed for the Thai border at 9.10am, only 10 minutes later than the agreed time---even better, I had been advised to expect 5 other paying passengers. Business must be slow, as only one other person accompanied myself and the driver and we in fact arrived at the frontier post at 10.45pm giving me the opportunity to spend nearly a full day at this end of the road location. Apparently, relations between Cambodia and Thailand have traditionally been cold. This impacts the

Concrete artistry in  Rayong....

independent tourist by the fact that there are no direct cross border transportation links. Shared taxis from the Cambodian side end at the border, passengers then required to foot it for 500m across no-mans land to the Thai control point. This what I shall doing early tomorrow morning, in the mean-time, I have holed up in a reasonable $10/nt. guest house---internet does not function and the shower comes in one flavour---cold.
              Noteworthy about the main road at the border on the Cambodia side, is that is lined with perhaps a dozen large (luxury?) casino hotels. The clientele, I am informed, is almost solely Thais--- considerably richer than their Cambodian neighbours. Interesting that in a country as socially tolerant as Thailand, with it's famous laissez-faire attitude towards the moral vices, that somewhere, someone, decreed that Thais have to be protected in their own country, from their cravings to lose a bundle at the slots & tables.
          Emerged at 6 pm for my early evening stroll up & down the drag of this one street 'wanna be' mini Las Vegas. Clearly the only westerner in town, so I did not have much confidence in being able to find anything to eat less than with the full spice load. The lady at the street front eatery that I selected, assured me that a nice piece of boiled fish could be offered totally spice free. With some trepidation, I accepted her offer---- I have been at the wrong end of these 'no/low spice' deals on previous occasions. Steaming plate served and true to form, the fish was almost glowing with the spice level. Took a couple of bites and was forced to hand over my $12 US (ate well yesterday for $3)--but hey, this is Las Vegas east and the Thai high rollers are in town. Just too many tough customers around to argue (only I speak English) the case & demand a discount for faulty goods!