Georgetown, Penang, day #2.

 Full day wandering the streets of Georgetown, Penang,--- a UNESCO world designated historic city,

I see four eyes.....

under heavy clouds, but no actual precipitation---just a little cooler, welcome relief. Visitors mostly confine themselves to the core area which is (supposedly) subject to renovation and redevelopment so as to preserve historic character. How are they doing?---Well, a mixed report. In many places the old chop houses, shop in front, live at the rear, are being replaced with modern style Starbucks and McD. et al. Cynically, one has to suspect that a lot of money might have been thrown at the city planners to permit so many out-of-character exceptions.
The streets are safe, clean and well supplied with eating holes that reflect the tremendous ethnic diversity of not just Penang, but the whole of Malaysia. On the streets of Penang, Indian, Malay and Chinese citizens all seem to co-exist agreeably enough, but I am not sure what tensions exist beneath the surface. Back in 1969 there were major riots across the country as the majority Malays felt      

Protecting the house....

economically & socially deprived in light of Chinese economic dominance and demanded almost complete ethnic control of the government, the military & police plus the educational curriculum and priority for the Malay language. I observe that each racial group in Penang seems to restrict itself to residing in its own residential area. Here is a Wikipedia link to further information on this issue:   https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Social_contract_(Malaysia)   
Outside the old core area of the city, the look and feel is bland & very similar to any other prosperous and growing conurbation in the region.
          Considering that Malaysia is an Islamic

Teaching respect....

country, it was interesting to hear (non- religious) Christmas music being pumped, along with plastic Christmas trees and Santas into the shopping plazas located in the city centre area.
           I have explored my travel options south from Penang and it seems that tomorrow night I should be in the coastal town of Lumput for a couple of days. Inconveniently, buses for Lumput only run from the Butterworth terminal, a ferry ride away, back on the mainland. 

Day #1 Georgetown, Penang.

             Delayed 3 hours this morning with a slew of work and family issues that required attention

Street of the TV......

on the computer. What did we ever do in the days before e-mail/internet? Yes, I remember from many business trips to the Far East in the eighties & nineties that it was work all day and send faxes all night (because night in the east, is working time in the west!). Anyway, with a clear conscience upon completion of my tasks, I was able to navigate my way to Penang from industrial Butterworth on the very efficient and cheap Malaysian public bus and ferry system. During the 20 minute ferry sea crossing section, I chatted with an Australian couple who were back visiting Penang for the first time in 36 years and pointed out in the distance to me, a red roofed bungalow on the shore, where they lived back in in 1980. At that time

The Chris W. welcoming committee

the bungalow, had a large garden in a splendid park setting along the sea front. Today, the red roofed bungalow is still there, but now bordered 10 metres away by a Shell refinery on one side and a warehouse on the other. Progress?
          As previously mentioned, the Georgetown area of Penang island is a UNESCO world heritage site, where a serious effort is being made to hold onto the old colonial and Chinatown buildings in a maze of narrow streets from where large road vehicles are banned. I did note several new style structures that seemed incongruously to have sneeked through the 'old town' planning process. Located a hotel room that should suffice for a couple nights to enable me to get to know the place without the inconvenience of the ferry/bus haul in from Butterworth.

Hells Bells.
             It's struck again. My nice hotel in Butterworth is right next door to a very ornate Buddhist, or

Down by the  (Penang) ferry dock.....

is it Hindu temple?? On the other side of the hotel is a big outdoor Indian restaurant (the population of Butterworth seems to be predominantly Indians originally hailing from the Tamil Nadu area of south India. Put these two factors together, plus throw in a Sunday night and it just right to have a jolly old, kick your heels up, Indian wedding, complete with all the music and continual ringing of bells. Can only hope that the racket ceases by my shut eye time of 11.00pm. At least the music is rather more soul uplifting than the Phnom Penh, Cambodia funeral dirges of last month that lasted for 48 non-stop hours just below my bedroom window. They don't warn

Mosque in Penang....

you about noisy weddings and funerals in the glossy travel brochures were everything is warm, sunny and soooo relaxing!

Smoking:
             In the S.E. Asian countries that I have visited on this journey it is a pleasure to note that each one of them seems to fighting the scourge of the cigarette. Hotels, buses, trains and even mini-vans all ban the use of tobacco. They seem to have picked earlier in their development cycle than countries in the west, that smoking is a very dangerous, expensive and dirty habit. I noted a street warning sign today in Penang, Malaysia that said that smoking outside in certain streets was illegal and subject to 500 ringgit's ($125 US) fine. Let's not talk here about the rampant use of the cell phone wile driving--another dangerous habit.

Crossing into Malaysia......

The mystery as to why all the hotel rooms were booked solid in Penang, has been clarified for me. On the mini-van trip down to Malaysia, I sat next to a 47 year old Philippine, who told me that she was running in the Penang International Marathon, along with 9,999 others. This lady was remarkable--she only began running a couple of years ago and just last weekend also completed the Bangkok marathon.
          The crossing point at the Malay-Thai border which is used for those coming from the Hat Yai, Thailand direction appeared to be nothing short of chaotic---- literally hundreds of heavy trucks, passenger vans plus private cars and motor cycles, all mixed in together. Both  Malay and Thai customs agents appeared lethargic in the extreme, to all the hundred of travellers packed into the customs shed---how only 3 or 4 of about 20 positions could be manned at such a busy travel time, beggars the imagination!
          So it's farewell to Thailand and on into Malaysia. Must express some disappointment with the eastern Thailand coast leading to the southern provinces and the cities that spread down along the coastal strip. Busy and prosperous--- yes. Obviously the city planners have  decided that the future is other than in tourism. Now on my run down to my journey destination of Singapore---but still 17 days left to 'discover' Malaysia. Apparently Penang is designated as a UNESCO world heritage site and is an eclectic mix of Malay, Chinese, Indian and colonial cultures. Hopefully the 10,000 runners will have run away after tomorrow and I can site-see in peace!

Rest day in Hat Yai......

  My most recent bus travel brought me to the city of Hat Yai in the southern most part of Thailand. Located about 50 kms from the border with Malaysia and a transport hub for bus/minivan routes that cross the border. Upon arrival in Hat Yai last evening, tired, hungry and very hot, I settled for a night in a hotel near the bus station. After paying room rent up-front, realised that room was non air -con, so stepping into the windowless room ($10US/night) was like stepping into an oven---the electric fan merely wafting the hot air around. Just made sure that I consumed lots of water & gritted my teeth. In fact to my surprise, till about 6 am, enjoyed quite a sound & refreshing sleep.
          Changed hotels early this morning so as to be nearer the city centre of Hat Yai and provide a more convenient spring-board for a spot of sight-seeing. Disappointingly, not to much to see here.... Lonely Planet describes the city as a gritty border town, popular with Malaysian men crossing for Thai ladies of the night!. Must say, that during the daylight hours, when I was in the town, I did not see anything that could be described as being untoward.
          Bus ticket duly purchased at Hat Yai bus station ($12 US) for the 4 hour bus run tomorrow across the border into Malaysia & down the west coast to Butterworth/Georgetown in Penang State.

          Scouting for boys and girls in Thailand seems to be enormously popular. There seem to be few bus or railway stations that I have visited in the country that did not have groups of young people decked out in uniforms, covered in badges and waiting to board their transport to camp. The uniforms are the traditional uniform styles that I remember with the wide brimmed hats for the boys. No new new fangled long trousers, or trousers for girls, or other updates to modernise the image of scouting. BP would have been proud. 

Down to the 'deep south' of Thailand.

            It has been a busy week on the mini vans, 'big' buses, and tuk- tuks of southern Thailand. I am

Transferring the fighting cocks to our bus.....

now in Hat Yai (pop: 191,000) about 50 kms north of the border with Malaysia. I made a considered decision to fore go the sun & fun resorts of the west coast of southern Thailand, famous for their inviting islands limestone cliffs and warm, gentle turquoise seas, so popular with the packaged tour crowd from North America and W. Europe. Instead, I have followed the route south along the rather mundane east coast and during the entire week have seen perhaps no more than a hundred western tourists in total. It might seem somewhat counter-intuitive to purposely miss the beauty spots, but after all, the theme of my trip has been to try and see as much of

Two little maids from school are we...........

that which is 'natural' and non-touristic as possible in the four S. E. Asian nations visited so far. When one is travelling solo the choice of places to go & things to see, can vary.
          Heading out of the A3 Living Hotel doorway at 7.15am and transported instantaneously by the omni-present touting tuk-tuk man to the bus station, I found it well worth the time to haggle and obtain ticket quotes from several bus companies that offered direct routes through to Hat Yai from Surat Thani, thus avoiding maybe long mid-point delays en route to change buses. In general, I have found almost all the services that a 'rough' traveller like myself might need, to be supplied very efficiently. The almost total absence of

A kid with the right moves....

spoken and written English in these parts does not make things perfectly smooth, but hey, is'nt that the allure of travel.
          Hat Yai is in the heart of Thailand's 'deep south' Muslim provinces and at least in the densely populated area around the large central bus station, the hijabid ladies with long gowns are very evident.
           The main sport in this area must be cock fighting judging by the large number cardboard boxes of squawking birds loaded from pick-up trucks that rendezvous'd with the bus at several pre-arranged meeting points along the bus route southwards. Not a sport that I have any interest in witnessing and anyway one that is likely enacted in anonymous warehouses away from prying eyes.

Mini-bused to Chumphon......

        After a complete day yesterday to walk the pleasantly empty streets and attractive sea-front

Tuk-tuk man's assistant works with him.....

promenade of Prachuap Khiri Khan, I coop mini-bused approx. 190 kms due south to Chumphon (pop. 58,500).  I am staying at the Euro Boutique Hotel---found it on Booking .com, & is located in the centre of town. Mark it down as an exceptionally well run and attractive establishment, very reasonable at $15 US for a single room---- highly recommended should you ever find yourself in Chumphon. Not much to see of touristic note in the town itself ---main street, bustling and well served by a shopping plaza and many restaurants, street markets etc. The town is located about 13 kms from the sea and is not much influenced by its proximity. The local tourist office promotes trips out to nearby islands, rafting & scuba diving. During my walk about in Chumphon this afternoon, I only spied a couple of other western tourist/backpackers.

           The southern peninsula of Thailand extends southwards down to Malaysia with Myannmar/Burma along the western border. Approx. 330kms south of Bangkok, at Prachuap Khiri Khan, the actual width of Thailand from the Gulf of Thailand to Burma is just about 8 kilometres. Despite the proximity of

Monkeying about in the internet cables....

Burma, until recently a very closed and isolated nation, there is very little influence in this area of Thailand of its very large neighbour. The reason for this is that the two  (one to the south, the other to the north) nearest international border crossing points are 250 kms away in opposite directions.
                 Language. English is spoken semi-fluently by very few Thais, even those employed at the reception desks of hotels. Many may have a very elementary knowledge of the international tourist language---- I am told that it is now offered to all in the Thai public school system. English is, or some form of it (in China they call it Chinglish, in Japan, Jinglish) is widely used in Thailand, on advertising displays, on major

Any colour dress you want as long as it's black (mourning for king)....

buildings, airports & bus stations etc. While not wishing to appear a language fascist, it does seem to me that Thais, especially the young & educated, could be making a more aggressive effort to speak better English given the massive importance to the country of the tourism sector and international business sectors. I cannot help recalling the intensity of desire of young people in Vietnam to make contact with westerners on the street, almost to the point of pestering, to talk/chat/banter so that they could, individually or in a group, sharpen their English conversational skills.
                Tone & texture. Except for the preponderance of wooden houses in the jungle clad northern hill areas of Vietnam and Laos, the rest of south east Asia, or at

Very beautiful street lights in Chumphon.....

least the part I have travelled through these past nine weeks, is a desert of featureless concrete buildings. Once a region of dense forests, these seem to have virtually 98% disappeared. I suppose that it is a combination of the increase in living standards, especially in China and the desire for wooden floors and furniture in western nations. The other key aspect of the deforestation issue I understand, is that with the increase of prosperity & incomes in this region, dietary improvements for the masses has resulted in protein intake levels to increase rapidly, creating strong demand for meat and milk based products all of require forests to be cleared for cattle ranching.
                 Even small provincial towns in SE Asia seem very large and densely populated compared to regional small towns in the West. I suppose that increasing farm mechanization in rural areas is driving people to the towns for employment opportunities. These folk have to be housed and (ugly) durable concrete structures, thrown up quickly, are the affordable and practical solution.

South bound to Prachuap Khiri Khan....

And the winner for clean station floors is......Thai Rail.

                Created in Prachuap Khiri Khan (pop: 86,500)---- aka: PKK. Apologies to any of the blog! Forced myself to the vertical at 5.05am this morning, so as to be sure of catching the 8.05 "Super Express" for points south of Bangkok.  I was not sure of the availabilities of taxis to transport me to Bangkok Central railway station so early on a Sunday morning. My contracted motor cycle was a no-show, as I half expected that he would be, but as luck would have it---no shortage of official meter taxi men on the prowl for fares.
Turkish intelligence community that might be following my
                    Bangkok main offensive to them

Looking from Prachuap to the islands

railway station is a hive of activity in the early morning hours, although I suspect that the central waiting hall also doubles as a cheap (free) overnight hotel for many, as there were stretched & sleeping bodies sprawled all over the place occupying blocks of 3 or 4 seats at a time. Interestingly, they have a special waiting area of the main station waiting hall just for saffron robed monks. Monks are restricted in their contacts with females, so possibly sitting next to one in the general waiting section could be
                 Thai trains are moderately modern, very clean and quite comfortable. The "Super Express" consisted of 3 carriages powered with diesel engines--not the quietest form of

Scary sea monster........

propulsion--- we rattled down the track at perhaps max. 80 km/hour. One area where Thai rail does excel, is in having perhaps the cleanest floors. Every 30 minutes one half of the floor crew came through the carriage with brooms, followed 5 minutes later by the wet mop man, for a total of perhaps 6 clean-ups in the 4 hours travel time. Might have been more efficient if they just banned shoes in the carriage---removing shoes is quite common in this part of the world.
               Arrived PKK at 1.00pm just 30 minutes late to be welcomed by just two motor cycle tuk- tuk men & none of the ultra high pressure sales tactics common in larger SE Asian cities---a very pleasant change. The Pancake House B&B, booked in advance over the internet, 100 m from the sea- shore. The first accommodation so far that did not have its own en suite bathroom. My fault, I missed the feature, or lack there of. 

Bangkok China Town and the big river.....

         Put into operation today what I believe is the most effective sightseeing strategy in a massive

Sailors a sailin'

city like Bangkok (pop: 8.3 million). Use public transport to reach a place that is a central and well known location. In this case, I selected Hua Lam Phong which, as we all know, is Bangkok central railway station. I then set my target as the river front area about 5 kms away on a variety of streets that took in the major parts of the very large Bangkok China Town. I was, of course, assured by all the tuk tuk drivers that are drawn to a foreigner carrying a map in one hand and a camera in the other, that such an expedition was humanly impossible to achieve! Well this human did it, albeit after

Light tricks under the bridge....

a number of wrong turns---it must be great to have one of those hand held GPS devices for such a walk. Like all China Towns the world over, the Bangkok version is chaotic, a mass of activity and congestion, but oh so ripe to witness all human emotion in the raw.
             The wide & majestic river, the Chao Phraya that runs through Bangkok seems to be very cut-off from the central city streets that border the great water-way---it is the backs of buildings in China Town that front the river. Access to river panoramas are via small dead end alleys that lead to mini-wharves that are used as off-loading points for all the merchandise that is sold in China Town. True, in various other newer and rehabilitated parts of the river bank, institutions like the Royal Thai Navy HQ, the fancy hotels and private clubs for the well heeled that have been developed in green & pleasant opulence.
             Time passes quickly with so many visual distractions and apart from the nonstop intake of liquids that is required in the oppressive heat, I was able to graze my way through all the street stalls selling fried bananas, sliced pineapples and

Banksy in Bangkok?

tasty sausages on a stick etc. Get away from the slick ex pat money manager and organised tour group oriented shops and the prices of food on the street is still surprisingly affordable---one would be hard pressed not to be able to fill the stomach for 3 or 4 dollars.
             At one point, at the north end of China town, the river bank opened out and I realised that I was at a river boat commuter stop. Right! Quick decision to hop on board and head up river for a half hour cruise. The conductor lady relieved me of 25 cents for this delightful and refreshing journey. Never quite sure with the public transport if sometimes they just charge foreign tourists of many different tongues, a low fee just to avoid a long, complicated (and annoying) transactions. Taking a public bus yesterday the driver assured me that there was no charge, free, gratis!

Promenading the major Bangkok shopping streets....

         One of those most frustrating things and I thought that I was well beyond that very early stage

Thai Kings memorial shrine at the rail station----

in computer use------dutifully wrote up my blog yesterday---pressed the wrong computer button and there it was, GONE!! Even though I say it myself, one of the most brilliant blogs written in blogging history---you will just have to take my word for it.
              To the here and now. Returned after a another sortie into the city. This  time along one of the main shopping streets---  Sukhumwit which was the street where my hotel was located 20 years ago. The 'Ambassador' was a big smart hotel, complete with food court and small shopping arcade. Hard to believe---gone! Replaced by a condo tower and yet

Emerald Buddha temple opp. the royal palace.

another luxury goods plaza. Unbelievable changes to the city. The main feature that distorts the senses on Sukhumwit and on many other major streets, is the two level, in places 3 level, massive concrete sky train public transportation line that runs right down the middle of the thoroughfares. I was struck by the great similarity in the above ground 'skytrain' mass transit system that has been constructed in Bangkok with the one in Singapore. Looks like someone bought the same set of plans.
               Several weeks ago the king of Thailand passed away. He was in his nineties and held the title as the worlds' oldest living monarch (this has now passed to Queen Elizabeth II). Much revered in Thailand as a unifying force in a country where there is a major fault line in the social fabric.The official mourning period for the king is 12 months during which most women, and many men will dress in black. Buildings, banks, plazas, railway stations display elaborate tributes to the king and public shrines have been erected on the streets for the public to offer up prayers. Such is the scale and grandeur of these shrines, especially the ones offered up by commercial organisations, that one

Male dancer performing funeral dance...

is inclined to ask oneself if there is not an element of competition to demonstrate the most piety.
              I notice that the Thai population, traditionally petite and fine boned, is noticeably larger & heavier than it was 20 years ago, larger than the folk in Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam today. It is not uncommon to see obesity on the streets of Bangkok, especially amongst the young---could their obsession with cell phones, higher wages, cheaper food and the passive life have anything to do with it?
                   Last night, I was out on the streets taking in my fill of street food, when in the shadows, between two barrows, I spotted a rather large rat feasting on tasty morsels---a couple of young Thai women simultaneously eyed the pest and started to scream. I unthinkingly, and valiantly, extended my foot and dropped it smartly onto the rat's tail. The critter erupted in panic and scuttled smartly away into the dark recesses. The woman behind the stall started to loudly berate me-----not quite sure how to respond, I also made myself scarce!

Hello old friend---Bangkok how you have changed....

Hungry monk....

          Here I am, arriving at my Bangkok hotel (after a gruelling 45 minute search for it as the pillion passenger on a motor bike) ---haven't I commented before that these taxi drivers do not know their own cities! 20 years ago, I used to whooosh up to the big, expenses all paid hotel in an air-con taxi---how times have changed and so has Bangkok---BIG time. Twenty years ago Bangkok had the feel of the "Wild East" about it---very much as does Phnomh Penh today. The sidewalks were dirty, deformed and thick with refuse. I can report from the front line that Bangkok has cleaned up its act massively---very clean, everywhere is now so much more presentable and inviting for the overseas tourist or business person. I am reminded of Singapore as it was in the mid to late nineties. Bangkok
has constructed & is now operating a multi-line rapid transport system---I was going to say underground, but all of the system that I saw this afternoon during my walkabout, was raised high on concrete pillars with

Wat Phra Kaew near the palace

major roads running parallel along the space underneath. What I do recall, and which has not changed one iota, is the near suffocating heat of the city. Now of course, the luxury air-con office & shopping plazas are on every corner and are valuable places of refuge for this foot sore and ever thirsty tourist.
           Improvement is evident where-ever I looked on my 5 mile saunter up one central main street and back down another. Yes, even the traffic jams are more massive and vehicular progress even slower than it was in 1996. At that time, the massive traffic was a source of national pride--what it is today, I do not know. Relying on the auto for mobility in Bangkok, seems to be a complete disaster--total vehicular gridlock.
             Correction: yesterday I stated that the previously ubiquitous tuk-tuk has disappeared from Thailand. Not entirely true---they are still to be seen, at least in Bangkok in an updated and presumably safer/cleaner version. It did seem to me that mostly the passengers are westerners, presumably using them for part of the essential Bangkok travel 'experience'. Many taxis around----but of course, they also suffer from the constant traffic gridlock--this has given rise to the motor cycle taxi genre. Men and machines are located at most important road intersections, licenses with photos and hi viz jackets de rigeur, provide some assurance that the sector is at least government controlled to limit the 'cowboys'.  

Observation:
           Back-packers get a bum rap. Frequently depicted as western, spoilt, work-shy students taking a

Two monks talking to ??

year off to "find themselves". Yes, there are many of these young people spilling out of overnight buses (popular as they save a night's hotel bill). I say young, as there is also a segment at the other end of the age spectrum. On a bus the other day and sitting next to me, was a senior gentleman from Spain. Of course he asked, as seniors are apt to: 'how old do you think I am'? To be polite, I joked---58?? He proudly countered---90!! he was on his fifth country during a 4 month voyage. Well done senior senor! The young people I have met--and I have quite a few this trip, have all been very respectful and tolerant of the cultural differences that mostly they are experiencing for the first time. They seemed remarkably informed about the history of the region and appeared to me to be extracting real education value from their travels, apart from the practical skills of overcoming the challenges that confront when one is travelling independently. Examples would be floods, missed connections, delays, security concerns on strange & forbidding streets at 4.00 am. My particular admiration goes to the young females who travel alone and who refuse to be daunted by newspaper headlines and other old granny tales.
           Most of the backpackers seem to carry outrageously big & heavy luggage on their backs. Not unusual to see two petite 110lb girls buried under a back load almost as big as they are. I say this as a traveller with just a single carry-on size piece for my 3 months 'on the road. Stay happy, travel light!.
                The travel guides, not least Lonely Planet, hype various places as 'party towns'. My take on these places is that they are very tame as far as the back-packers are concerned. Perhaps things will be different as I pass through Thailand destinations such as Phuket and Krabi which likely target more the packaged tour segment clientele. We shall see......

Crossing the border into Thailand.....

Monday 14 Nov 2016.

         8.00am sharp-- presented myself at the Cambodian border exit control and breathed a sigh of

Sitting, waiting for the shared taxi.....

relief that they had not dreamt up any new charge/levy/toll for an independent tourist like me, for some service as a fee to leave the Cambodian Peoples' Republic. All cleared, I strolled the 500m across the sweltering no-mans' and into Thailand. All very straight forward. Next task--locate a bus, shared taxi, or whatever to take me the 200kms to Rayang, billed as a minor resort south of Pattaya and Bangkok. As reported yesterday, there is no cross-border public transportation from Pruhm, Cambodia into Thailand, and so the cartel of taxi drivers on the Thai side apply maximum squeeze on every westerner. For me, the squeeze was $70US (dealed down from $80) for the trip. Solo passenger basis only permitted! Breathe deeply and pay-up. What else to expect from a border crossing with a dozen casinos!
     

Hanging on the wall of the food stall.....

     Last time I visited Thailand was exactly 20 years ago---1996, in my export manager days. I had forgotten that the Thais drive on the left. Very quickly could see that Thailand is certainly a major step up in affluence over Cambodia, Laos etc. and also where it was in 1996. The shops here are crammed full of western style packaged consumer goods, 7-11's on every corner, ditto McDonald's and Starbucks. At least it means that I shall go less hungry than was often case in Cambodia. Only myself to blame, but I just cannot stomach the raw spices lathered over everything. Prices noticeably elevated in Thailand compared to the other SE Asian nations visited on this trip, although I should say that I am only shelling out $15 US for a very acceptable air-con centrally located hotel room in Rouang.
           Big disappointment for me is the apparent demise of the tuk-tuk in Thailand. Last time here, I could dive on or off these admirable vehicles & for just about $1 could get to anywhere in the Bangkok metropolis. Thailand seems to be well on the way to being a mass car owning society, whereas Cambodia, Laos & Vietnam are still well & truly mired in the mo-ped era. I observe

Ernie the elephant calling all to the temple....

how the overall speed of the road traffic in T'land is much greater than in the other three nations through which I have journeyed. Regretfully, the hyper affluent era of the spoiled brat kid driving his souped-up Honda down the main drag at 80mph seems also to have arrived in Thailand.
            Not a lot to keep a tourist in Rayang, so off to the bus station bright and early tomorrow to land myself a seat on a big bus (not mini-van) bound for Bangkok.. Seems as though my days of being picked up at my hotel door by a tuk-tuk or motor cycle taxi and shepherded to my bus, waiting for me at the bus station, as in Cambodia, Laos & Vietnam, are now a thing of the past & I will have to struggle to locate the bus station and the correct bus for myself in each town--not always as easy as it sounds.

Sunday, 13 November 2016.

             My shared taxi departed for the Thai border at 9.10am, only 10 minutes later than the agreed time---even better, I had been advised to expect 5 other paying passengers. Business must be slow, as only one other person accompanied myself and the driver and we in fact arrived at the frontier post at 10.45pm giving me the opportunity to spend nearly a full day at this end of the road location. Apparently, relations between Cambodia and Thailand have traditionally been cold. This impacts the

Concrete artistry in  Rayong....

independent tourist by the fact that there are no direct cross border transportation links. Shared taxis from the Cambodian side end at the border, passengers then required to foot it for 500m across no-mans land to the Thai control point. This what I shall doing early tomorrow morning, in the mean-time, I have holed up in a reasonable $10/nt. guest house---internet does not function and the shower comes in one flavour---cold.
              Noteworthy about the main road at the border on the Cambodia side, is that is lined with perhaps a dozen large (luxury?) casino hotels. The clientele, I am informed, is almost solely Thais--- considerably richer than their Cambodian neighbours. Interesting that in a country as socially tolerant as Thailand, with it's famous laissez-faire attitude towards the moral vices, that somewhere, someone, decreed that Thais have to be protected in their own country, from their cravings to lose a bundle at the slots & tables.
          Emerged at 6 pm for my early evening stroll up & down the drag of this one street 'wanna be' mini Las Vegas. Clearly the only westerner in town, so I did not have much confidence in being able to find anything to eat less than with the full spice load. The lady at the street front eatery that I selected, assured me that a nice piece of boiled fish could be offered totally spice free. With some trepidation, I accepted her offer---- I have been at the wrong end of these 'no/low spice' deals on previous occasions. Steaming plate served and true to form, the fish was almost glowing with the spice level. Took a couple of bites and was forced to hand over my $12 US (ate well yesterday for $3)--but hey, this is Las Vegas east and the Thai high rollers are in town. Just too many tough customers around to argue (only I speak English) the case & demand a discount for faulty goods!

Day #2 in Battambang--doing the chores.....

Day #2 in Battambang. Time for a little housekeeping. The supply of $US has dwindled, so time to

French colonial--- down by the river in Battambang....

stock up a little. I have a wallet full of 100 riel notes Cambodian currency--worth 2 1/2 cents each! Have to be careful to use these, as Cambodian currency is non-convertible outside of the country. Basically the $US is used for transactions, with small change being given in riels. After today, I am heading west towards the Thai border, & have discovered that bus links across the border to nearby Thai towns from Cambodia, are almost non-existent The alternative mode of transportation is by shared taxi--so have booked into a vehicle going to the border town of Pruhm at 8.30 am tomorrow. Should get me to the frontier in 3-4 hours, where I will

Derelict French era railway station

overnight & investigate onward transportation opportunities to Thai towns along the coast. My friendly taxi man, promised me that the Toyota Camry will have no more than 6 paying passengers on board along with their luggage. We shall see!
           Weather in Battambang today, sunny and scorching hot, as I complete my tasks. Camera in hand as always, I try to capture some of the good selection of the traditional architecture French colonial style go-downs (shop below living quarters)---balconies, shutters/volets. Note on the map that there is a closed down & defunct railway station built by the

The cows have moved into the old maintenance sheds....

French in town & decide to investigate. There it is--imposing forecourt and clock tower---all trains  leave at 8.05am from this station!! (the clock froze at that moment). Tracks over-grown, but the  long platform is still walkable. Meet an old French speaking Cambodian guy who, with his family, is preparing for a wedding to be held on the station forecourt---- pots & pans at the ready, plus heaped trays of fresh vegetables being cut up in preparation. Great conversation and lots of laughter with a friendly group of people. Step down off the platform and wade my way across the tracks, through dense weeds to the derelict maintenance sheds, now being used by the local cows for grazing land. Always find it quite sad to see these last remnants of another (colonial) world collapsing in rubble before the eyes. What plans and pride did the builders and architects of these edifices have when they were new construction so many years ago? Did they foresee there handiwork collapsing into ruin with empire?

Fresh crab for dinner....

Observation:  The first thing, or maybe the second after the internet password, that one asks for at a hotel upon arrival, is for a map of the town/city which is frequently supplied as a blurry photocopy. Anyway, that is what you have, in order to orientate yourself in a maze of strange & narrow streets---- I am forgetting of course, that these days most people have GPS equipped cell phones. But for this "old school" traveller, and yes, he even carries an analogue boy scout style compass for guidance in emergency situations (!!) the paper map is essential, along with a hotel business card, if he is ever going to find his way back to his room.
                Anyway, the point of my observation is that Cambodians particularly, seem to be just unable to cope with the concept of a flat, two dimensional, old fashioned paper map. They look at them, turn them in all directions and then deny any knowledge of their city. The other day, I was at a 6 point travel circle and for the life of me, could not remember the correct exit route, so I sidled up to a group of four police men seated under a tree, enjoying a chat and their tea break. Immediately, all of them stirred to the vertical out of curiosity and huddled around the rather crinkled map. A solid 5 minute discussion ensued in the Khymer language and the map passed from hand to hand and rotated for alignment in all different directions. During this process, this traveller stood to one side to let the deliberative process unfold and  await the verdict on which road he should take. To my amazement, the constabulary, in its joint wisdom, indicated (in best Cambodian) that my hotel street was unknown to them and guidance from them was not possible! Hope that I do not have to rely on this crowd in an emergency. Seems as most local people in this country just cannot relate to the map concept. This observation was supported by the hotel manager in Siem Reap, a French man who has lived in Cambodia for 4 years and who outlined his frustration to me, as he relies heavily on a network of tuk-tuk men to pick-up and deliver western hotel guests to various city locations.

A very worth-while day in Battambang #1

             Battanbang's bamboo railway train. Adventure #1. Seduced by the tour brochures, I thought

Out of the way cow! This is the 'Bamboo Railway'....

that I should try this one. Normally one who is quite sceptical about tours from hotels and sees them

Temple on a rock....

as a chance for the entrepreneurs to grab a few more dollars from my childrens' inheritance! Put this one down as a three out of ten..... Met the tuk-tuk man at 9.15am outside 'The Asia Hotel' and proceeded 8 kms south of the Battmanbang town aboard his 'little' tuk-tuk, as in tuk-tuk towed by a 100cc moped devoid of a suspension system. The bamboo railway turned out to be individual trolleys powered along a straight line, rickety set of single rails for about 4 or 5 kms. When the slow moving up traffic powered by a noisy, smelly gas powered lawn mower engine meets same clanking down the track, somethings got to give! In the case of the bamboo train, one train/trolley is manually lifted off the track for the other one to pass ----and then laboriously placed back onto axles and track. Fun the first couple of times, kind of monotonous the sixth time.
           The far end of the line consisted of a huddle of miserable shacks selling very jaded souvenirs while an increasing number of tourists piled into the dead-end station awaiting the physical lifting and turning around of

all the trolley trains (the trolleys can only operate with the engine at the rear). Some of my fellow tourist passengers volubly less than happy about their $5 US ride (expensive by Cambodian standards), but hey---welcome to the third world! Note: not sure if it is politically correct these days to refer to other non-western areas as being third world--my apologies to all, if I have been insensitive!!

Adventure #2. Two adventures in a single day may be too much for this senior! 3.00pm picked up again by my loyal & trusty tuk-tuk man---doesn't he have any other customers, or is it that I am being overcharged? 14 kms along very potholed major roads to arrive at the "temple & mountain tour". I score this one at 15 out of 10!! Disappointment this morning, MORE than made up for by this afternoon's expedition. Weather: perfect--sunny, dry & a little less humid. This place hosts an absolute classical Cambodian Buddhist temple atop a very high rocky hill. One cannot imagine a setting that more perfectly encapsulates the post-card image of

20,000 executed at this temple....(re-enactment)

mysterious & sublime Cambodia. But wait--this temple holds very dark (& recent) secrets. During the  genocidal purges by the Khmer Rouge army in the period 1975-79, 20,000 citizens of Battambang, men, women children & babies, were shepherded to the temple at the summit and chopped up, hung, boiled alive etc etc., and then hurled many metres down into the caves of which there are many. The whole place is now a rather raucous museum---local people sit on the memorial stones, laugh sing & play pop music-- go figure.
               The actual temple, clad in gold, complete with saffron gowned monks and with monkeys clambering all over, offers an unforgettable view of hundred of square kilometres of rice paddies and distant purple mountains in the late afternoon summer sun. I trust that my blog photos do some small justice to the temple mountain at Battambang. Definitely include this as a 'must see' place in S.E.Asia.
                But wait---more to come. Descended the vertiginous narrow road on the back seat of my motor cycle taxi-man. Just time for a cold (soft)

Millions of fruit bats leave the caves exactly at sun-down.....

drink and as it's nearly dark, a 100 million, no, I lie---500 million bats emerge miraculously in an unending stream, from the caves in the rock face, precisely as the sun hits the horizon. Amazing--only spoilt by the loud techno rock belted out on loud speakers by the restaurant owners. Wouldn't it have been so much better to have heard only the screams of these swooping, diving, rolling, flying mice. Truly an unforgettable experience.

Siem Reap......

    Second full day in Siem Reap. Awoke to learn that 'The Donald' is now president. Not a betting

Only rivaled by the Hitler boutique in Delhi.....

man, but I was 99 1/2% sure that another result would have prevailed!! Glad that I did not bet the house on that one!
           I set myself a no stress day to recover from the heat and stairs of Angkor. I have reviewed once again the photographs taken and feel generally pleased with the results. I took about 250 shots and suppose ideally that I should have ranked and culled these down to the 'kepers' of no more than 20. Problem is that one tends to fall in love with ones output, especially somewhere as photogenic as Angkor Wat. Likely, I will never return here so I suppose it a natural loathing to destroy memories of a day I will not forget.
           Siem Reap has been designated by the Cambodian govt., and it's foreign aid donors, as the future economic powerhouse of the central region. Located on major routes and just 7 kms

River view--- Siem Reap

Stone statue out side an hotel...

from the Angkor Wat temple complex, it clearly has plans to develop beyond a one day tourist 'quickie' to the temples and leave. High end business structures  (exhibition halls and convention centres), resorts etc are springing up along the strip leading to the temple complex all with the aim of holding visitors in town longer.

Buddhist cow effigy at temple...

            Siem Reap city is quite picturesque based on the standards of the region, with a large night market aimed at the first time (less sophisticated) tourist---of which there are 10's of millions just over the border in China and all very keen for an initial taste of the 'outside world'. The English language is omni-present in central Siem Reap, with a wide variety of restaurants, both local and western foods. The economy in Cambodian cities appears to operate at two different levels ----locals pay one price and tourists another. Realise that this is universal, but the difference does seem to be extreme here and one has to be able to haggle aggressively. The high value of the Cambodian currency vs. the greenback----- has been pegged at current levels for 20 years, assures that imports of items that tourists demand are likely available---significantly better than Vietnam, where retail store offerings are comparatively thin in terms of selection.

Angkor Wat.....

   Brief early morning conversation with all in Mississauga to say that $80 had been pried loose from

the Niagara Falls casino! The gods are smiling.....
               This was the day to visit Angkor Wat the famed UNESCO temple complex near the central Cambodian city of Siem Reap (310 kms north west of the capital city of Phnom Penh). My contracted tuk tuk driver was waiting for me in the hotel lobby---$14US whole day service deal and we drove the approx 8 kms to the temple site. Ticket deals come in single, 2 day and 5 day packages. I opted for the $20 single day, figuring quite correctly that I would be 'templed out' after 4 hours or so walking and and climbing countless steps. In fact, I saw several cases of elderly Angkor Wat. Cambodia is clearly making big plans for capitalizing on this famous world heritage site. The approach roads are lined with resorts and very high end hotels, convention halls and I even glimpsed a casino tucked away. Most of the massive tour buses appeared to have either Chinese or Korean script on their sides. Clearly, this hotel and entertainment investment boom is set to rapidly expand.

western tourists suffering health emergencies in the sweltering heat. Angkor is a massive complex of hundred of different temples I am told, of which I only saw a selection on my "small tour", as it is denominated. Angkor has high meaning to the Cambodian nation and its silhouette is featured on the national flag, its leading beer and much else. For full specifics on Angkor please connect to the Wikipedia link:
                To be honest, my state of mind before reaching Angkor Wat was somewhat negative and I was not feeling the sense of high expectation that many say they sense upon visiting. Generally, my travel philosophy is to steer a 180 degree course away from hardcore tourist destinations. High tourist season has not yet (begins mid Dec.) commenced in the area and already Angkor was very busy with the packaged tour crowd---mainly from China, Korea and Thailand. The queue to ascend the temple towers was 45 minutes in the blazing sun---this tourist declined on the basis of stiff knees and the thought of all those stairs.
            I have to admit that my enjoyment from the visit to Angkor was much enhanced by my

involvement in photography and the old chestnut--look at details (closely) and don't just see things. It is a very photogenic place, particularly given to rendition in black and white---most of the walls of the temples are overwhelmingly grey and black. I did notice that only about 5% of tourists make it to the back areas of the "small tour" route---heat, boredom, disinterest? Your intrepid scribe here was able to scale high up the outside walls of one of the smaller temples to "capture the shot"---in fact, he did not realize how high and how steep had been his route, until it came time to figure out the route to descend! Apparently tours to Angkor at dawn and dusk are very popular with the photography crowd---although given the number of grey, wet days the SE Asia region has experienced in the past month, I am not sure that getting up early would have paid off---shades of rousting out at 4 am in Darjeeling 2014, to see Mount Everest and seeing only dense grey clouds....how is that for negative thinking!! Took about 250 photos and have to whittle this down to max. 50 'keepers'. How did those poor folks

manage in the days of Kodak film, when 250 shots would have been 10 rolls of film.
                 In all, a worthwhile experience to visit Angkor. My one regret is that I never found/saw the famous tree where the roots have grown up and  "drowned" an entire wall of the temple.
               As mentioned, I had an arrangement for  my tuk tuk man to wait for me in the parking area and that his vehicle (#7) would be there. Well, you guessed---this tired, hot tourist and tuk tuk were unable to connect in a parking area with at least 150 tuk men awaiting their passengers. Had to  hire another driver to get me back to the city---so somewhere, is an unpaid driver looking for me around the ruins!  

Observations on a wet Sunday morning.....Day #4.

   It's Sunday morning in Phnom Penh (PP) and it's pouring with rain and the lowest temperature---probably about 22C, that I have experienced in the past 7 weeks in S.E. Asia (except in the mountain towns and passes). Time to do some domestic chores like laundry under the shower in the hotel. Why is it that they never supply a sink plug to make life easier. With necessity often the mother of invention, I have frequently converted the room garbage bucket into my laundry bucket on more than a few occasions!
              An over-riding memory for me of PP, will be the noise level and how it has affected my experiences at the hotels where I stayed. The first one, the RS guest house, was under going some kind of wall reconstruction--the hammering started at 7am and continued for 12 hours. In self-defence I was forced to relocate to the Nawin guest house several building along the street---actually in a side lane just off the main #178 street. Lo and behold, the lane was immediately blocked off to traffic (motor cycles) and a big white tent erected. The common opinion from the resident westerners was that we were to be witness, up close and personal, to a Cambodian wedding (with lots of juicy photo opportunities) but no, it is a funeral. Of course--white is the colour of mourning in the Orient. In Cambodia, apparently a funeral is a 2 day affair with mournful, repetitive, wailing music played quite loudly non-stop (volume turned down 50% in the middle of the night) to assist the spirits of the dear departed to be transported to the 'other side'. Stressful for all I am sure, including the hapless hotel residents. Why did the ditty from the Goon Show, "Ying tong, ying tong, tickle my toes" spring to my mind? Not complaining, dear readers, these little frustrations add to the total travel experience and anyone who might be truly upset should probably not be a visitor to magnificent, loud and raucous places like Phnom Penh.

The invasion of S.E.Asia by 'big brew'. It is noticeable to one who does enjoy a glass of beer with his noodles on a steamy hot tropical night, that the big international brewers, notably Heineken & Carlsberg are making a big push to capture the minds and hearts of newly affluent young people in the region. The streets of Hanoi's old French quarter---the entertainment, hotel and restaurant district were awash in pretty young things dressed in trendy green outfits, handing out samples of suds. This assault was supported by full blast disco to add to the experience. Very professional marketing and clearly well received by the target market. The banks of the Mekong River in Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) are decorated with perhaps a kilometre stretch of massive bill boards incorporating the red star as depicted on the Heineken bottle label---clever marketing move here as a tie-in--the red star is also central to the flag of the Peoples' Republic of Vietnam. In Phnom Penh, just a few doors away from my guest house, Carlsberg rented a real decrepit and spooky, moss covered old French colonial era villa, eerily flood-lit the place, installed mega-sound equipment and issued a load of "private invitations" to young trend-setters (beer drinkers) to party the night away.
Observation from the build-a-brand case study. The local brands---Angkor, Saigon and Lao Beer, seem to this strictly non-expert beer consumer, to be just as tasty and refreshing, at half the price, as the international beers----but is  n't that what building profitable brands is all about!!

The 'Killing Fields'.......Day #3

                    This is my day to visit the 'Killing Fields'. I meet up with my tuk tuk & driver for the 14 km drive south west out of Phnom Penh, through some very industrial areas jammed with metal fabrication and motor cycle repair shops operated out on the road, in front of the businesses. Just as the city begins to thin out and the landscape gradually becomes semi-rural, we arrive after a 45 minute journey at the Cambodian Nation Museum of the Genocide. I was reminded of visits to concentration camps in Europe where the atmosphere was hushed, shocked and respectful. One cannot visit Cambodia without visiting this shrine to mans' inhumanity. Very few of the flimsy tropical buildings that were the back-drop to the millions of mass murders exist today and have been replaced with explanatory reading boards explaining the happenings at a particular location in the "Fields". If interested, here is the Wikipedia link to the "Killing Fields" Killing Fields. Immediately after the liberation of the camp in 1979 by the Vietnamese army, the surface remnants were cleaned up and human remains prepared for storage. Due to the unstable nature of the rain soaked tropical soil bones, teeth and especially clothing remnants continues to surface at the genocide location, visitors however, are specifically requested not to touch or remove any remains.
          Almost as frightening as the mass murder dimension of the atrocities, was the actual implementation by Pol Pot and his Khymer Rouge government of their plans to drive society literally back to the stone age, so as to achieve a 'pure' communistic society within a Cambodia totally closed to the world. Money and the banking system were closed down, schools and hospitals bulldozed, educated people were declared to be traitors and killed, even wearing eyeglasses was an indication of improper thinking and the wearer marked for early execution. The killing of babies was explained by Pol Pot along the lines that to kill grass, one also has to tear out the roots!
           The site of the 'Killing Fields' were part of a network of locations where upto 2 1/2 million people were brutally murdered, is curiously peaceful amongst the tall trees gently swaying in the tropical breeze.
            Of interest is the fact that Pol Pot and his murderous regime were recognized by western countries, including the US, UK, France & Germany as the legitimate government of Cambodia, complete with a seat at the United Nations for nearly 20 years AFTER its de facto collapse!

The Killing Fields so--- peaceful now......

The lake was a burial pit for thousands.....

No words needed.....